So, the first thing you want to do is decide what to plant.  That is an article in itself and I assume you already have an idea.  If not, as soon as you are done reading this article, look up different vegetables to plant.

The worst thing you could do is rush into your yard and start plugging holes into the ground without a plan.  There are some things to consider when it comes to your garden location that could cost you time and money if you aren’t careful.  So, once you have all of your supplies and you have decided what vegetables you are going to grow, it is time to plan out your garden.

Start with a sketch of what you would like your garden to look like.  Get a piece of paper and a pencil and draw out your plan.  Plan out exactly where you would like your garden to be, but be sure to pick a spot that will get plenty of sunshine.  Your best bet is to watch your yard for about a week prior to digging up your garden.  This will give you a great idea on what section of your yard is bathed in sunlight.  

There are other things that you should be mindful of when selecting your site. Don’t use areas that have recently been repaired or that are near metal fences. The chemicals you recently used and the metal from the fence could be infecting the area and would contaminate your crops.  Another pitfall to avoid is divets in the ground.  If there is a large enough area that is low, it could cause water to pool after watering or a rain.  That stagnant water will drown your garden before it gets to start.  

When you think you have the perfect spot, immediately stop using any chemicals in the area. When planting your seeds, aim for an efficient layout.  Beans or peas can be grown near corn.  This would allow you to use the corn stalk as a stake and save you the money and hassle in buying stakes.  A quick pest control tip is to plant onions, garlic, or basil.  The odor from these plants is a natural insect repellant.  Use them as a barrier on the outside of your garden to help control the pests.

So, there you have the simple steps of planning your organic garden.  Happy planting and feel free to offer me the first tomatoes.  

Mulching around your vegetable garden, or the rest of your garden for that matter, helps to retain moisture, which helps cut back on watering, which of course helps the environment stay green, but it doesn’t have to be the expensive bark mulch you can get in a rainbow of colors now, unless you are going for a trendy looking garden!

As long as you have not sprayed your lawn, and your lawn is not on any “drugs” you can bag your clippings as you cut your lawn, and use these around your tomato plants. Lawn clippings are full of nutrients. Or you can use that pile of dead leaves you have in your back corner, or hay from a local farm.

But the important thing to remember about mulching your tomato garden, is that you must wait until the soil reaches a good warm temperature, or else the mulch will insulate the cold in the soil.

Your tomato plants, need the soil to be warm to thrive, so depending on your climate, let the plants get a good start first, keep the weeds down, (weeds don’t seem to care what temperature the soil is!) , and make sure they get watered. As the temps start to rise overnight, and the soil gets warmer, then mulch. This will retain the heat in the soil as well as the moisture needed.

Plus as an added bonus, mulching tomato plants keeps those dreaded weeds down. I usually mulch to about 2 inches deep and then turn it into the ground in the fall. It also helps energize the soil for next years tomato crop.

Plant Nutrients

Plants do not eat hamburgers and French fries, but they do still need “nutrients.” Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are the three nutrients most commonly fed to plants. Most fertilizers are a combination of the three. When reading a fertilizer package, a three number series such as 3-0-3, or 15-10-5, presents the ratio of all three nutrients in the fertilizer. Other nutrients and minerals, in smaller amounts, help tomato plants grow robustly and healthily. Plants get nutrients from the soil in which they are planted, so soil preparation is integral to providing plant nutrients in proper amounts.

To determine which nutrients your garden soil needs to promote healthy plant growth, prepare a soil sample and send it to your local cooperative extension office for analysis. The soil sample will allow you to properly prepare the garden soil and add just enough of each lacking nutrient to grow healthy plants. Another important test is the soil pH. Soil pH affects the way plants are able to take in nutrients. If your soil is too high or too low, you will want to amend the pH by adding mulch (to increase acidity) or lime (to increase alkalinity.)

When to Add Nutrients

Tomato plants need nutrients at differing amounts at various stages of growth. After receiving soil test results and before planting tomatoes, work a general fertilizer into the soil. Ratios of 5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are good to start. The soil test results will tell you if you are seriously lacking one nutrient or another.

Once the plant begins growing, different ratios of nutrients promote best growth. Once the plant starts flowering, it needs a higher ratio of potassium.

Soil Composition for Plant Nutrition

Adding fertilizer is only one step to providing plants with proper nutrients and increasing crop yield. Soil composition and structure directly affects tomato plant health. Tomato plants thrive by growing roots deep into the soil. Hard clay soils must be broken and amended with compost to promote healthy root growth. Overly sandy soils need addition of organic matter in order to hold water and nutrients.

Compost for High Fruit Yield

Organic matter is an essential component of soil. Adding proper organic matter will greatly improve soil health, while adding improper organic matter is detrimental to soil. Organic matter can be added by top dressing or double digging. Top dressing with organic works exactly as it sounds-you add organic matter to the top of the soil, almost like a mulch. Double-digging requires digging and removing soil, mixing the organic matter into the soil, and replacing the newly combined soil.

Great organic matters are already composted, or broken down. As wood chips, leaves and other compost breaks down, it uses nitrogen. It is important to add composted organic matter rather than fresh, as fresh matter will remove essential nutrients from the soil. If fresh organic matter is all that is available, be sure to add nitrogen along with the organic matter.

Soil composition is one key to tomato growing success. Structure, pH, and nutrient availability all contribute to plant health. For more detailed information on soil health and how to manage nutrition (including diagnosing nutrient deficiencies), consult a comprehensive tomato growing reference such as How to Grow Tasty Juicy Tomatoes.

Clearly planting tomatoes in a greenhouse leaves you with limited options, for most people the greenhouse will be relatively small and probably only a little taller than the height of an average man, unless of course you have the space and money for a large more industrial sized greenhouse, but for the purposes of this article I am going to discuss the smaller option that is, I believe, more prolific in the home gardening environment.

This makes it much more difficult to use the tomato plant hanging option for your plants and in practical terms the only real option you have is to plant using the soil inside the greenhouse or to sit pots on the floor of the greenhouse, either way make sure you have a good mix of mulch, compost and fertilizer.

You will still need to be able to support the fronds of the tomato plant and with limited space a good way of doing this is to knock 3 stakes into the ground at each end of the planned run and to tie gardening string between the stakes. When the plants grow they pass through the strings and then hang over them a little like clothes on a washing line.

If you are inside a greenhouse the plants will be totally dependent on you for their water so you have a choice, invest in a self watering system or use hand watering. If you choose hand watering it is also good practice to leave the water in the greenhouse with the plants to allow it to warm a little before use. Takes a bit of discipline but as long as you refill after watering then leave overnight, that should do the trick and you will not shock the plants with cold water.

The final thing you need to take care of is not letting the greenhouse get too hot and or humid, if it is really sunny for a period you can paint the glass with a whitewash to reflect the sun away and you can open the roof light or door to let some of the heat get away but don’t forget to shut them again at night when it is cool.

Other than these few peculiarities the tomatoes should be treated in much the same as they would be if they were being grown outside, so in addition to proper soil preparation and watering, you need to take steps to keep them disease free, pest free and to give them access to plenty of nutrients via a feeding program.

Tomato plants may suffer blooms that keep falling off without production of fruit could be caused by Blossom End Rot, a Fruit Rot – A mold growing inside tomatoes as they ripen but outside the tomatoes are healthy, or Early Blight – Leaves that curl up, turn a yellowish brown color and almost look like black spot found on rose bushes.Early blight is a fungus. Dark brown to black spots on the leafs with concentric rings, usually starting on the lower leaves. Leaves can turn yellow and drop off the plant.

Various research groups around the glove in the plant industry have conducted a painstaking research, and studied on how to improve tomato production especially during off-season. In the Philippines, researchers at the Bureau of Plant Industry in Los Banos National Crop Research and Development, a research laboratory based in Los Banos Laguna, have discovered a

new technology for tomato off-season production. This new tomato off-season production technology is now being commercialized in the region.

Tomato growers, farmers and gardeners who wants to earn more from tomato harvested during rainy season, may find this technology beneficial. Even the hobbyist gardeners may find this tomato off-season production technology, enjoyable, as they continuously plant tomatoes in pots, boxes, or any available containers, for easy and accessible fresh tomato yields during

mealtime.

Grafting tomato on eggplant rootstock is one way of eliminating bacterial wilt, which is a very destructive disease of tomato. Research showed that grafted tomatoes in the eggplant rootstock yielded a 21% higher than the ordinary tomato seedlings. The grafting process is simple. Sow seeds of eggplant for rootstock 5-7 days ahead of tomatoes. Graft when eggplant is 3-4 weeks old. Cut the stock and scion ( the same size ) with a sterilized blade at 70-80 degree angles above the first two leaves (the cotyledon). Insert rubber tubing, 10mm long and 1-1.5 cm diameter on the stock allowing the cut portion of the scion or splice to get in touch with each other. Set the grafter plants inside the humidity chamber and transfer seedlings in a cool dry place with complete black net cover for 4-7 days. The seedlings are then ready for transplanting.

The eggplant variety used for rootstock is EG-203 which known and identified to be very highly resistant to bacterial wilt and other soil-borne tomato plant disease organisms.

The tomato variety for scion must be an indeterminate type wherein trellis must be provided for favorable vegetable development.

Try this tomato off-season production technology and enjoy a fruitful tomatoes growing on eggplant rootstock.

Tomato Disease Prevention

Disease prevention in tomato plants starts with healthy growing practices. Preparing the soil, watering properly, and feeding appropriately are all keys to tomato disease prevention. Tomatoes like a well draining soil filled with lots of organic matter. Tomato roots penetrate deeply into the soil, helping to stabilize plants and take up water. With well-prepared soil, watering deeply and infrequently—every 4-6 days, will allow the tomato plant to have enough water, without putting the plant at risk of problems of overly “wet feet.” Always water in the morning, so plant leaves have time to dry during the day. Leaves are a perfect spot for disease incubation, and water ripens those conditions even more. Prune your plants to provide air flow through the leaves and branches, which will also aid drying time. Ensure that your tomato plants receive proper nutrition by conducting a soil test, and treating the soil according to the results. All of these practices will give your plants a good start fighting off diseases and pests.

Diagnosing Tomato Pests and Diseases

If all of your well-intentioned cultivation practices have not stopped your plants from succumbing to a problem, then you must diagnose the problem. Tomatoes can suffer from pest problems, nutrition problems, viral, bacterial and fungal problems.

Pest damage to tomato plants causes visible physical changes. Cutworms actually cut off the plant from its root system, causing the plant to wilt and die. Aphid damage results in sticky residue on the plant. Aside from the damage they inflict, you can often see the pest itself on the plant. Caterpillars bury into fruit and eat it, causing fruit to rot. Whiteflies and spider mites are visible on the leaves. Diagnosing pest problems is easier than other problems because most pests can be observed on the plant.

Nutrition problems in tomato plants manifest in several areas of the plant. Tomatoes absorb a wide variety of nutrients, minerals and trace elements from garden soil. Deficiencies in each nutrient result in specific symptoms in the plant. Excess nitrogen causes deep green, lush, leafy plants with little fruit. Nitrogen deficiency causes yellowing of lower leaves. Calcium deficiency causes blossom end rot, a common problem on tomato fruit characterized by yellow, leathery spots that spread into black, rotting patches on the blossom end of the fruit. (The end away from the stem.) Nutrition problems can be seasonal, or soil related. A soil test helps determine what nutrients are lacking in the soil. If all nutrients are in the soil, factors such as overly wet or cold soil can make it more difficult for plants to absorb nutrients.

Viruses, bacteria and fungus all cause tomato diseases and problems. Wilts, damping off, leaf spots, mildew, fruit rot, cankers, and leaf mosaic problems are all common tomato problems caused by a cocktail of tiny organisms. Each problem shows in the tomato in different ways. Leaf mosaic viruses show up in leaves, causing mosaic-like patterns. Cankers are growths on stems, leaves or fruit. Root rot often shows up in the leaves of the plant, as they shrivel and die from not having enough water. For a comprehensive, pictorial guide on diagnosing tomato plant pests and diseases, consult How to Grow Tasty Juicy Tomatoes (available from www.bestjuicytomatoes.com).

Treating Tomato Pest and Disease Problems

The phrase: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure definitely applies to tomato growing. As earlier related, properly caring for tomato plants and their soil prevents many problems. However, should your plants fall prey to a problem, there are many ways to treat.

First, correctly diagnose the problem. Once diagnosis is certain, follow procedures related to the particular problem. Many plant problems can be alleviated by changing gardening techniques. Plants that are stressed are more susceptible to pest and disease problems. Examine watering, mulching, and feeding practices. If those techniques are in balance, many pest and disease problems will go away. Nutrition deficiencies may be corrected by adding correct nutrients to the soil in easily accessible forms. Some nutrients are best delivered as leaf or soil drenches, while others work well in time-release granular applications. Pest problems can be corrected with beneficial insects, changes in gardening techniques, and insecticides-both synthetic and organic. Viral, bacterial and fungal problems can also be treated with a combination of gardening techniques and soil and plant drenches and sprays. Safety is an important consideration when applying any sort of pesticide. Read the label carefully and follow all directions. More is not better when pesticides are concerned.

While all of this information can seem daunting, tomato growing is a rewarding hobby. Keep a good reference on hand, and whenever your plants are under the weather, open the book and identify the problem. How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes contains over 260 colored photos of diseases, pests and common nutrition deficiencies and is a must-have for any top-notch tomato grower!